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Got up to New Hampshire over spring break, and was able to get in a late season run up the Pinnacle Gully route in the Huntington Ravine of Mt Washington. The weather was cloudless, 15ºF, and winds less than 10 mph ... a far cry from the 5ºF and 70+ mph winds the last time I was up there a number of years ago. Photos from the trip: 🤍
It’s not lost on me. Not too long ago this climb was a two day ascent. Today it can be climbed in about 20 minutes. 🤍nemountaineering.com
Went for a walk to see how the ice held up after the February thaw. It was in fine shape 2/27/17. Pinnacle Gully to Lobster Claw Gully. Gear list: 6 screws, 6 alpine draws, 60m rope. Book your adventure 🤍nemountaineering.com
Climbed on December 21, 2021 with Keith from EMS Guides.
Beautiful tour up Huntington Ravine to the Summit of Mount Washington, down the Snowfields, over the Lip and skirted around an open Little Headwall to the Sherburne Trail. ### FIND ME ### web: 🤍 instagram: 🤍 facebook: 🤍 strava: 🤍 snap: sr_drummond
Conor and I set up camp at Harvard Cabin for a couple days of climbing in Huntington Ravine. Late Saturday we went up Odell’s Gully and down South. Early Sunday up Pinnacle and down the Escape Hatch. By 2:30pm we were having burgers and beer at the Glen House.
I was planning a solo trip up to New Hampshire for a couple of weeks of ice climbing in January/February of 2020. I described the trip to my friend, Jason, and although he had never been ice climbing, I guess I made it sound cool enough that he shelled out some serious money on gear, bought a plane ticket to up North, and joined up with me for a couple of days. So, for a bit of my trip, it was Jason and Jason, the Jasons, from down South, up in the cold North, being cold. I've been ice climbing for over 20 years, but Pinnacle was Jason's 3rd ice climb, and only his 4th time in crampons. We did two variations on the Standard Route out at Frankenstein Cliffs before tackling Washington. He done good. The only thing that really went awry, aside from us just being kind of slow up there, was that my GoPro iced over within seconds up on the summit of Mt Washington in 10ºF, 80mph wind, conditions. So, all we have are two unidentifiable blurs on either side of some other rectangular blur that may or may not be the summit signpost. Had I not been up there before, there is no way we could have found the summit, proper, in those conditions. Approach: 3 hours Pinnacle: 5 hours Summit slog: 2 hours Descent: 3 hours Photos from the trip can be found here... 🤍
Dave, Gav and I take advantage of some good early season conditions in the Cairngorms (16th January 2016) and complete a classic Cairngorm tour. Skinned from the carpark to 1141, skied Diagonal Gully, skinned round to Pinnacle Gully and then finished off with a run down Aladdin's Couloir (no footage) - and skied out of Sneachda to the car park. Snow was a bit slabby and grabby and light was flat in Pinnacle but still a great day out.
Climbing Pinnacle Gully on Mt Washington in full on winter conditions.
Beautiful spring day on Mount Washington. Classic New Hampshire Ice Climb. Bring a small ice rack, a few small to medium cams, double ropes are nice in case you need to rap. We tend to belay the first pitch (60m between pin belays - on left side) and then simul climb the remaining pitches. 4-6 screws, a few cams, some draws, and a skinny single rope.
Ascension du Huntington Ravine par Pinnacle Gully (2015-02-27)
For a number of years it’s been a springtime ritual to climb Pinnacle with Mike. Typically it’s our last ice climb. We always rotate who leads the first pitch, and we simul the second pitch to the top. Last year we climbed Pinnacle first week in May. Mike had first pitch. And caught a ride down the auto road with the State Park Crew; as it was May! This year we dropped into Tuckerman Ravine to descend.
When: 2012. 12. 31 (12pm~11:30am) Where: Mt. Washington Pinnacle Gully Huntington Ravine trail 🤍White Mountain National Forest (NH) When I arrived at the bottom of Pinnacle Gully, one guy was already climbing. I and another guy followed him as solo climbing each. It took almost 1:20 hour for climbing. Snowy wind was very strong on Alpine Garden.
May ice climbing on Mt Washington with Mike. On the approach we were could see Canadian Coast Guard Helicopter running drills on the summit. Once we hit the Alpine Garden they resumed and I think we shot more videos and took more photos of the helicopter than gully climbing. :-)
Huntington to Tuckerman linkup. Quick loop over the Alpine Garden with Jared before picking my kids up from school. Book your adventure 🤍nemountaineering.com
For a number of years it’s been a springtime ritual to climb Pinnacle with Mike. Typically it’s our last ice climb. We always rotate who leads the first pitch, and we simul the second pitch to the top. Last year we climbed Pinnacle first week in May. Mike had first pitch. And caught a ride down the auto road with the State Park Crew; as it was May! This year we dropped into Tuckerman Ravine to descend.
Short tour Huntington and Tuckerman linkup: Pinnacle Gully to Lobster Claw Gully. Gear list: .5L green tea, 1 cookie, 6 screws, 6 draws, and 60m rope.
A friend asked if I would share what I carried in my pack after climbing Pinnacle Gully. Zoë was happy to record. So... This is what I packed today, considering weather and ice conditions, for climbing in Huntington Ravine. Hope you find this useful. I’d rather not go into detail about the rack and screws. What we decide to carry for pro differs. I will say I consider possible objective(s), route conditions, and my partners needs. (While I might be fine with 6 screws, when swapping leads, my partner might prefer a few more). As far as soft goods, I have my bias towards what I like to wear, use, and, abuse. I would recommend packing multiple pairs of gloves in different weights. Trading damp gloves for dry makes for a more comfortable day. And if you (or partner) drop a glove, you're covered. Working with ropes daily means I can eat through gloves, so I prefer less expensive, but more durable, leather gloves. Buffs (neck gaiters) can be tuned into hats, balaclavas, head bands, etc. They take up little space so I usually carry a few.
Scottie making his way up through waist deep snow to the start of Pinnacle Gully. 3" of new snow had deposited pockets of deep snow, but avy danger seemed resonable and manageable.
2012. 12. 31 (Mon) Hiking start: 8am Arrive at the bottom of pinnacle: 11:30am Start from AMC Joe Dodge Lodge in at Pinkham Notch. It takes almost 3:30 hour. Strong wind was the biggest trouble.
Conditions we found in the Ravine 03.05.18. 🤍nemountaineering.com
First pitch of Pinnacle Gully with Anthony. FWIW: Rope: Sterling Nano 50m x 9mm Rack: 6 Petzl Laser Speed Light screws, 8 draws Petzl: Nomics and Darts and etc Pack: Blue Ice Dragonfly Camera: GoPro Max find me at 🤍nemountaineering.com
Conditions we found in Huntington 04.08.18. Winter is still happening in the higher elevations. Moderate avalanche danger in most of the gullies this weekend.
Conditions we found 11.08.19 Fun week stretching legs and lungs while taking tools for a walk into Huntington. Today, day number four, Pinnacle Gully looked good enough. Early season ice climbing often feels like full on winter conditions. Today the weather complied with wind chill warning and blowing snow.
Cleaning up my Macbook and found some footage a friend shot some years ago. As I recall, a rather pleasant morning climbing Pinnacle Gully up and over the Alpine Garden.
Weather while soloing Pinnacle Gully on Mt. Washington
Full video: 🤍
Blue sky. No wind. Mild temps. Always a treat to climb in Huntington on a quiet and calm January day. Oh. And we spotted an abandoned rope on the Alpine Garden. Gear list: 6 screws, 6 draws, and a 60m rope.
Conditions we found 11.27.19 Fighting a head cold with back to back lung busting days. On my way home a friend asked if I’d unload my pack and show him what I was carrying. Zoë was nice enough to shoot the video.
Classic conditions in Pinnacle Gully, Huntington Ravine. Route Beta: if you come to your senses and decide fighting the wind up and over the Alpine Garden isn't worth the effort, you can bail off a three pin rap station from the top of the first pitch. This rap station can often be buried in snow. An easy way to locate these pins; search overhead for two OTHER pins (usually tied off with cord/nylon). The three pin station is below these and slightly uphill. Rap with two 60m ropes.
Climbing up Pinnacle Gully on Mt Washington. April 14, 2012. Video clip from our Mt Washington State Park Manager's blog: 🤍
Taking the tools for a walk. After a day with perfect ice conditions, I returned with Ruben to find not so perfect ice conditions. 🤍nemountaineering.com
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